PUPPY BUYER
ETIQUETTE
by JOANNA KIMBALL (permission to cross post)
I am posting this specifically because I do NOT have any puppies here
now, and don’t anticipate any for a while. So you know that I’m not
singling any real person out. This is because it seems that there’s a
lot of confusion about the whole “proper” way to go about things. So,
puppy buyers and anyone else thinking about maybe someday approaching a
good breeder about a puppy, here you go:
1) STOP LOOKING FOR A PUPPY. The classic mistake puppy buyers make is
saying “I need an xx breed puppy at the beginning of the fall” or
whatever it may be. So they go out looking for litters due in August.
BAD IDEA.
Puppies are not interchangeable; one is not the same as the others. This
is largely because every breeder has their stop-the-presses criteria for
breeding or not breeding, and each has preferences for size,
personality, working ability, etc. Breeder X’s “perfect puppy” is not
the same as Breeder Y’s.
Stop looking for a puppy; look for a BREEDER. Make a personal connection
with a breeder you feel shares your top criteria, and then wait for a
puppy from them. Maybe they even have a litter on the ground, which is
wonderful, but maybe they’re not planning anything for a few months. Or
maybe they’re not planning anything for a year; in that case, ask for a
referral to another breeder that shares those same priorities and has a
similar (or just as good) personality and support ethic. However it
works out, screen the breeder first, then ask about a puppy.
1b) EXPECT TO WAIT FOR A PUPPY. It’s VERY rare to wait less than a
couple of months; four to six is normal. I’ve waited a year on a couple
of occasions; no, even we breeders don’t walk through the field, able to
pick puppies like tulips. We ALL have to wait, and we ALL have to get
matched up by the puppies’ breeder.
2) INTRODUCE YOURSELF THOROUGHLY. The initial e-mail should be several
paragraphs long; block out at least an hour of quiet for the first phone
call. When you initiate contact, clearly communicate three things: You
are ready for a puppy, you are ready for a puppy of this breed, and you
understand what sets this breeder apart from the others and you share
that commitment. Specifically describe your plans for this puppy; be
truthful. If you are not going to be able to go to four training classes
a year, SAY SO. Don’t say “Of course, training is a huge priority around
here,” or you’re going to end up with a puppy who’s flushing your toilet
sixty times a day because he’s so bored and you’re not challenging him.
The ideal first contact e-mail usually goes something like
“Hi, my name is X and I’m writing to inquire about your dogs. I’ve been
doing a lot of research on [breed] and I think they’re the right one for
me because of [these four reasons.] I know puppies are a huge
commitment, and I am planning to [accommodate that in various ways.] I’m
approaching you in particular because of your interest in [whatever,]
which is something I feel is very important and plan to encourage in
[these three ways.]”
That’s the kind of e-mail that gets a response, and usually pretty
quickly. If I get something that says “I hear you have puppies on the
way; how much?” it goes in the recyle bin before you can blink.
2a) Bring up price either at the end of the first contact (if it’s been
successful and you feel a connection to this person) or in a follow-up
contact. It’s nice to say “If you don’t mind me asking, about how much
are [breed]s in this area, if there is a typical price? I just want to
be prepared.” The breeder will usually give you two pieces of useful
information: Her price, and the median prices around you. That way, if
you decide to go a different way, you know about what to expect. If the
second person you contact names a price that’s double the median, try to
discreetly find out why. A very difficult pregnancy, nationally ranked
parents, a surgical AI, c-section resulting in very few live puppies,
those are some reasons a breeder could be asking more and it’s
reasonable. If there’s no real difference from the other breeders except
price, think carefully.
3) BE WILLING TO BE TOLD NO. Not every person is the right match for
every breed. That’s just fact. There is no way on earth I could make our
home appropriate for a Malamute puppy, and I’d have to lie through my
teeth to get approved for one. And I have my entire life devoted to
keeping dogs happy. I don’t expect you to have anywhere close to the
obsession I have, so that means there will be some dogs that are just
plain wrong for you. If a breeder says no, ask why. If the answers make
sense, don’t keep calling people until you finally get one who will sell
you a puppy of that breed. Go back to the drawing board and be very
humble and honest with yourself about what kind of dog really would be
right for you and your family.
4) PLEASE DO NOT GET ON MORE THAN ONE WAITING LIST unless you are VERY
honest about it. This goes back to rule 1. You need to understand that
we think our puppy buyers are just as in love with the puppies as we
are. We’re posting pictures, writing up instructions, burning CDs,
researching everything from pedigrees to nail grinding, all so we can
hand off this puppy, this supreme glorious creature of wonderfulness,
with the absolute maximum chance that it will lead a fabulous life with
you, and we’ve built all kinds of air castles in our heads about how
happy this puppy will be, and what it will do in its life with you, and
so on. Finding out that you had your name on four lists shows that you
don’t realize that puppies are not packages of lunch meat, where getting
one from Shaws is basically the same as getting one from Stop and Shop.
Also, as soon as your name is on one of our lists, we’re turning away
puppy buyers. If we’ve sent ten people elsewhere because our list is
full, and then suddenly you say “Oh, yeah, I got a puppy from someone
else,” it really toasts our bread. So just BE HONEST. If someone came to
me and said “I’m on a list with So and So, but she’s pretty sure she
won’t have a puppy for me, and I’d love to be considered for one of your
dogs and I’ll let you know just as soon as I know,” I’m FINE with that.
I understand how this goes. It’s not a disaster for me to have a puppy
“left over” at eight weeks because you ended up getting that So and So
puppy; it’s just frustrating to have the rug yanked out from under me.
5. PLEASE DO NOT EXPECT TO CHOOSE YOUR PUPPY. This one drives puppy
buyers CRAZY. I know this, trust me. I have a lot of sympathy because
I’ve been there. But the fact is that when you come into my house and
look at the eight-week-old puppies and one comes up and tugs on your
pant leg and you look at me, enraptured, and say “THIS IS IT! He chose
ME,” I’ve been looking at people coming into the house all week, and
every single time this same puppy has come up and tugged at them and
every single one of them have said to me “THIS IS IT!”
What you are seeing is not reality. You are seeing the most outgoing
puppy, or you’ve fallen in love with the one that has the most white, or
the one that has a different look from the rest of the litter (when I
had one blue girl puppy in a litter of black boys, every human that came
in the house wanted her; when I had one black girl puppy in a litter of
blue boys everyone kept talking about how much they loved HER), or the
one that’s been (accidentally) featured the most in the pictures I’ve
posted. Or, sometimes, you have a very good instinctive eye and you’re
picking the puppy that’s the best put together of the litter. And that
puppy, of course, is mine, and you’re going to have to pry him out of my
cold dead hands.
My responsibility is not to make you happy. And that, dear friends, is
why I am posting this now, and not when I have a bunch of actual puppy
buyers around . But it’s the truth. My responsibility is to the BREED
first. That’s why my first priority in placing puppies is the show
owners, because they are the ones that will (if all goes well) use this
dog to keep the breed going. It’s not that I like them better than I
like you; it’s that I have to be extremely careful who I place with them
so that they can make breeding decisions with the very best genetic
material I can hand them. My second responsibility is to the PUPPY. I
will place each puppy where I feel that it has the best chance of
success and the optimal environment to thrive.
So while I do care, and I will try to take your preferences into
account, do not expect to walk into my living room and put your hand in
the box and pick whatever puppy you want. And do not expect to be given
priority pick because you contacted me first; conversely, do not expect
that because you came along late you somehow won’t get a good puppy.
Sometimes the person who calls me when the puppies are seven and a half
weeks old ends up with what I’d consider the “pick” for various reasons
(sometimes because somebody called me up and said they’d gotten a puppy
from someone else; see rule 4 above). I am going to try to do my
absolute best to match puppies to owners as objectively as I can, not
according to who called first.
When I was waiting for Clue, I think I initially called Betty Ann six
months before she was born. I waited through two other litters, where
Betty Ann thought she might have something for me but then in the end
told me no. Then I waited until 8 weeks when she thought this one might
really be the one, and then another two weeks until she made her final
picks and sent me a puppy. I was about ready to vomit with the tension.
I UNDERSTAND. But the rewards of waiting and being matched with the
right puppy are greater than any frustration with having to sit with an
empty couch for a few more months.
6) ONCE YOU GET YOUR PUPPY, THERE WILL ONLY BE THAT PUPPY IN THE WHOLE
WORLD. If you’ve been sitting around with your fingers crossed saying
“Please, Molly, please, Molly, I only love Molly,” and I say “I really
think Moe is the one for you,” you’re probably going to feel
disappointed. But take Moe and go sit on the couch, and put your finger
in her mouth, and realize that she has a really cool white toe on one
foot but none of the other feet have white toes, and let her try to find
a treat in your pocket, and I guarantee you by the time you’re five
minutes out of my driveway Moe will be YOUR puppy. And a year later you
may remember that you thought Molly was so pretty, but Moe… well, Moe
could practically run the Pentagon she’s so smart, and her face turned
out MUCH more beautiful than Molly’s did. And so on.
7) PLEASE FINISH THE ENCOUNTER WITH ONE BREEDER BEFORE BEGINNING ONE
WITH ANOTHER. If you end a conversation with me saying “Well, this just
all sounds wonderful, and I’m going to talk it over with my wife and
we’ll call you about getting on your waiting list,” and then you hang up
and call the next person on your list, that’s not OK. If you don’t feel
like you click with me, or you want to keep your options open, a very
easy way to say it is to ask for the names and numbers of other breeders
I recommend. That way I know we’re not “going steady,” and I won’t
pencil you in on my list. If you are on my waiting list, and you decide
that you don’t want to be anymore, call me AS SOON AS YOU KNOW and say
“Joanna, I’m so sorry, but our life has gotten a little crazy and I need
to be taken off the puppy list.” And I make sympathetic noises and take
you off. If, then, you decide you want to get a different puppy, be my
guest. Just keep me apprised and let me close off my commitment to you
before you open it with another breeder.
…Which brings us to something that is super important and most puppy
people don’t realize:
8 ) EVERY BREEDER KNOWS EVERY OTHER BREEDER. Now of course I don’t mean
the bad breeders, but the show breeding community is VERY small and VERY
close-knit. If you’ve been on my list for three months, I’ve kept in
contact with you, I think you’re getting a puppy from me, I’m carefully
considering which one to sell you, and finally I match you with a puppy
when they’re eight weeks old, and THEN you e-mail me and say “Sorry, I
got a puppy from Arizona, bye,” my instant reaction isn’t going to be
“Oh noes!” My instant reaction is going to be “From Jill?” I probably
e-mail Jill several times a year, if not several times a month, and I’m
probably going to pick up the phone in the next sixty seconds and say,
“Did you just sell a puppy to Horace Green from Topeka? Did you know
that he put himself on my waiting list three months ago and has been
saying all along how excited he is?” And two minutes after that she’ll
get a call from Anne in Oregon and Anne will say “Did you just sell a
puppy to Horace Green from Topeka? He’s been feeding me lines for eight
weeks! I had a puppy ready to go to him next week!”
And we will take your name in vain, Horace Green from Topeka, and Jill
will feel bad that she sold you a puppy, and oh the bad words we will
say. And Horace Green from Topeka will be a topic of conversation at the
next Nationals, and t-shirts will be made that say “DON’T BE A HORACE,”
and someone will name their puppy Horrible Horace and everyone will get
the joke and laugh.
In the end, “Be excellent to each other,” as Bill and Ted so correctly
ordered us, is pretty much the paradigm to follow. If you err, err on
the side of this being a relationship, not a transaction. Try to act the
way you would with a good friend, not with an appliance salesman. And
the ending will be as happy for you as it is happy for us.
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